Travel in China (continued)

[owenkrout]

Private Mini-busses

The next order of busses are the smaller, privately run mini-busses. These may frequent the more heavily traveled bus routes or they may provide short distance runs between two cities, or between villages surrounding major cities. These are essentially oversized box vans with seats for 15-20 people. Those seats are cloth instead of the hard plastic of the city busses, but are crowded together even closer. It takes the tiny frame of many Chinese women to fit into these seats with any comfort at all. Since the seat in front of you is soft cloth, you can ram your knees into the back of the person in front of you and make enough room to manage to fit in. They will have a conductor to collect fairs, announce stops and yelling at people at each stop trying to convince them to use their bus. This is also where you are most likely to share your space with chickens, ducks, geese, and even the occasional baby pig. Huge bags and boxes of indeterminate produce or products are also likely to share the passenger compartment with you. Often the operators will make some money on the side transporting freight from one stop to another. Fares vary according to the busses run. Those running the most heavily traveled city routes are the same fare as the larger (and cleaner and safer) city busses. (One Yuan here in Shenyang) Those traveling between towns or other such longer distances such as railway station to the airport, will charge according to distance traveled.

 

These are commonly private enterprise at its worst. These are normally poorly maintained near death traps. I was in one of one winter’s day when they hit a large pot-hole and one of the side windows fell out. Other than curse at the passenger sitting there for wanting them to stop and let him off, they didn’t even act like anything happened. All of us sat and endured the blast of cold air for the rest of the 20 kilometer run. The drivers are even more devil may care than the city bus drivers. Since they are private enterprise and in competition for customers fares, they will often race each other to the next stop and try to cut the other guy off from getting the most advantageous position at the next stop.

 

In some areas, these are a real convenience and a reasonably priced mode of transport, the price varying according to how far you are going. In other places these are free wheeling operations where it is definitely rider beware. I lived in a small city for awhile where it was about 20 kilometers into the near-by big city, where people commonly went to do major shopping. There were mini-busses that made the run between the two towns. Five renmembi and about a 40 minute ride. These were run by what amounted to a minor mafia. They would stop at certain major stops and compete fiercely with each other for enough customers to fill the seats before they would proceed. These busses always have a conductor and sometimes one or even two other shills. They would even resort to outright kidnapping. We had a foreign teacher, who was an ethnic Chinese Canadian and hence looked Chinese, who was waiting for a regular city bus. One of the mini-busses pulled up and announced their destination. She told them, “Bu shi”(No). There were few customers that day and after a short wait the two shills from the bus physically grabbed her and dragged her onto the bus. They then slammed the door and sped off. They then demanded that she pay the five renmembi fare before they would let her off. She flashed her “Green Card” (Foreign Resident Permit) and they panicked braked to a quick stop and threw her off. (Chinese nationals can get into worse trouble for crimes on Foreigner than for crimes on Chinese nationals.) This was not an isolated incident. I once snatched one of these fellows by the shirt collar from behind, making use of my 50 kilo weight advantage to about jerk his head off, just after he grabbed my Chinese daughter and started to hustle her onto the bus. Also loudly and with as fierce of a look as I could muster, announcing, “Ta wo nuier!!”(She’s my daughter!!!) Followed by a good shaking. He quickly relinquished his “catch” and dove in the door as they sped off. These drivers were so wild and lawless that the Americans in that area referred to them as the “Cowboy Busses”.

 

The job of the conductor at each stop is to try and convince people to use them instead of the normally overcrowded city bus. The shills, if that bus has any, actually get out and may go as far as a half a block away to try and compel people to get into their bus. It still amazes me that Chinese people will allow these people to literally drag them across the street and onto a particular bus. They do have a few legitimate points in their favor. They make change, which many city busses do not, lacking a conductor. You are more likely to obtain a seat. They are not supposed to have more people on board than they have seats. This is commonly ignored. Of ten people will be sitting on the engine cover that is just to the right of the driver. Once these spots and all the seats are filled, they conductor will produce small folding stools that are set up in the isles. Occasionally, the police will have a fund raising event and stop these busses for being overloaded and fine them. Instead of the fine, often a bribe is paid on the spot. Violations such as this are written on the driver’s license if the bribe is not taken. I was on one bus that was stopped twice in less than two kilometers for being overloaded. Both times they drove off without anyone getting out.

 

What is often considered the best seat is the “shotgun” seat on the other side of the engine cover from the driver. It often has more leg-room. However these are box vans, so there is literally nothing between you and the truck they almost rear-ended except for the bumper and the windshield. Given the wild driving typical of these drivers, I usually figure that I prefer to have some cushion between me and whatever we hit. Besides, it is like ridding in the front seat of the roller coaster. You can see everything and it just makes the ride scarier.

 

Next installment: Taxis

[Kaige]

Take an overstuffed pillow with you next time , either to make you comfortable or a substitute air bag for the rear ender

[Mick]

Ah, Sir Owen, I too am quite familiar with these rolling death traps. The one's down here in Shantou are particularly bad and, as our campus is located ten miles outside the city, there are always a plethora of them lurking at the bus stop just outside the gate. The shills down here can be especially aggressive and have been known to drag unwary students, usually female, onto their rust buckets. And yes, I also had to grab one shill by the arm and spin him around several times after he made the mistake of grabbing Li by the arm and trying to force her onto the bus. Quickly sizing up the situation, he relented and scampered away. B)

 

My most memorable ride on one these involved a one hour ride back from Chaozhou, a beautiful, ancient city about an hours careen north of Shantou. The ride to Chaozhou was uneventful as it was on a larger bus. It was the return trip that was a trauma. I was in the company of two students plus a visiting friend from America. The students, in an effort to economize, bought us all seats on this rolling and rusting bucket of bolts. Two windows were missing, there was a large hole in the floorboard next to our seat, and one could easily view the full moon from another opening in the roof.

 

The thing was packed to the rafters and several people were standing in that little sunken area that leads down to the door. We were seated in the rear of the bus (Rosa Parks, where are you when we need you!) on a long bench that stretched across the entire width of the bus. As soon as he pulled out into the traffic, the driver immediately started weaving in and out of the traffic and once he reached the outskirts of the city, plastered his foot to the floorboard and we lurched forward at breakneck speed. Much of the trip was made in the left lane of a two lane road with horn blaring and passengers being tossed about like ping pong balls in a jar.

 

A couple was sitting next to me and the woman soon became nauseous. This was due to the bouncing ride and the gas fumes that filled the cabin soon after liftoff. The two missing windows and the two rust holes proved a blessing in this case I guess. Absent a barf bag, the woman opened her purse and began to toss her cookies into it and this continued for the duration of the trip.

 

I tried to ignore this unfortunate circumstance but, between the seeping carbon monoxide and the woman's gagging, I fought my own roiling stomach all the way. I might also add that it was on this memorable sojourn that I saw the only openly gay behavior I have seen in China. Two young guys were openly kissing each others necks two seats in front of us as the other passengers, whispered and chortled. The exception, of course, was the lady sitting next to me who had her head buried deep into her purse and missed the whole thing. Her husband, however, was considerate enough to give her a running commentary on the action.

 

These kinds of conveyance scare the hell out of me. I rarely ride them for a number of reasons, not the least of which is the experience I described above. Often the drivers will stop and "sell" us to another driver. We are then forced to get off one bus and on to another. We often have to wait outside in sweltering heat while the drivers haggle over a price for the transaction. I have yet to figure out the economics of just how this works and which driver actually makes a profit. But it happens all the time.

 

Look forward to the installment on taxis. Should be interesting. I have been jostled in every kind imaginable, German, French, Chinese, the list is endless.

[Eric&Yuhui]

Ah, Sir Owen, I too am quite familiar with these rolling death traps. The one's down here in Shantou are particularly bad and, as our campus is located ten miles outside the city, there are always a plethora of them lurking at the bus stop just outside the gate. The shills down here can be especially aggressive and have been known to drag unwary students, usually female, onto their rust buckets. And yes, I also had to grab one shill by the arm and spin him around several times after he made the mistake of grabbing Li by the arm and trying to force her onto the bus. Quickly sizing up the situation, he relented and scampered away.  B)

 

My most memorable ride on one these involved a one hour ride back from Chaozhou, a beautiful, ancient city about an hours careen north of Shantou. The ride to Chaozhou was uneventful as it was on a larger bus. It was the return trip that was a trauma. I was in the company of two students plus a visiting friend from America. The students, in an effort to economize, bought us all seats on this rolling and rusting bucket of bolts. Two windows were missing, there was a large hole in the floorboard next to our seat, and one could easily view the full moon from another opening in the roof.  

 

The thing was packed to the rafters and several people were standing in that little sunken area that leads down to the door. We were seated in the rear of the bus (Rosa Parks, where are you when we need you!) on a long bench that stretched across the entire width of the bus. As soon as he pulled out into the traffic, the driver immediately started weaving in and out of the traffic and once he reached the outskirts of the city, plastered his foot to the floorboard and we lurched forward at breakneck speed. Much of the trip was made in the left lane of a two lane road with horn blaring and passengers being tossed about like ping pong balls in a jar.

 

A couple was sitting next to me and the woman soon became nauseous. This was due to the bouncing ride and the gas fumes that filled the cabin soon after liftoff. The two missing windows and the two rust holes proved a blessing in this case I guess. Absent a barf bag, the woman opened her purse and began to toss her cookies into it and this continued for the duration of the trip.    

 

I tried to ignore this unfortunate circumstance but, between the seeping carbon monoxide and the woman's gagging, I fought my own roiling stomach all the way. I might also add that it was on this memorable sojourn that I saw the only openly gay behavior I have seen in China. Two young guys were openly kissing each others necks two seats in front of us as the other passengers, whispered and chortled. The exception, of course, was the lady sitting next to me who had her head buried deep into her purse and missed the whole thing. Her husband, however, was considerate enough to give her a running commentary on the action.

 

These kinds of conveyance scare the hell out of me. I rarely ride them for a number of reasons, not the least of which is the experience I described above. Often the drivers will stop and "sell" us to another driver. We are then forced to get off one bus and on to another. We often have to wait outside in sweltering heat while the drivers haggle over a price for the transaction. I have yet to figure out the economics of just how this works and which driver actually makes a profit.     But it happens all the time.

 

Look forward to the installment on taxis. Should be interesting. I have been jostled in every kind imaginable, German, French, Chinese, the list is endless.

Sir Owen? I'd like to see the Knightship certificate.. Since when the King of China made you a knight and not me??

Actually kids, I don't want to brag but my brother years ago did genealogy research in France. Our family dates from 1614.. Up to about 1986, my mom's far-related cousin was receiving a pension from the British Crown . No kidding. I'm serious .Then he died.. So did my hope to live at Buckingham ! LOL and be Eric I of England .. I must be 2,345 th in line, like the GZ visa thing.

So I'm blue blood kids.. Yes, you call me Your Grace ... It's cool and unpretentious . Owen, eat your Lordship heart out !

:D

[owenkrout]

Yea, well you got me there, Eric. In 1614 my ancestors where just German peasants, as far as we can figure out. So.... I suppose our ancestors probably had at each other with swords and battle axes at some time.

 

Mine gave up the old world for Pennsylvania when it was still British and the personal property of the Penn family in the mid 18th century or so.

 

British pension, eh? Must have been from Normandy.

[Eric&Yuhui]

Yea, well you got me there, Eric.  In 1614 my ancestors where just German peasants, as far as we can figure out.  So.... I suppose our ancestors probably had at each other with swords and battle axes at some time.  

 

Mine gave up the old world for Pennsylvania when it was still British and the personal property of the Penn family in the mid 18th century or so.  

 

British pension, eh?  Must have been from Normandy.

Just address me as "Your Grace: from now on... I Get a kick out of it...

 

juuuuust kidding ... Eric is fine too... Just make sure you bow though...

Not normandy,, My family is from Anjou.. Sw of Paris

[Myles]

Aloha from Hawaii,

Wow! that sounds like a very interesting ride. I rode on an airconditioned bus

and watched an old Jackie Chan movie on an overhead television. The produce

was in the baggage compartment below us.

I am waiting for the taxi story.

Myles aka Annakuen'GG